I know this is supposed to be an ad for woman's surf apparel for Seea, but man, I want to go and surf with them. Plus, look at their swank gear. I know what I'm getting my girlfriend for christmas.
Yup, this was New Jersey this past sunday. I'm not sure exactly where in New Jersey this was taken, but it was pretty epic no matter where you were at the jersey shore.
I know some people think surfing Nazare's wave isn't as presegious as surfing Jaws or Mavricks. But there is something to be said when you are flying down a fat mount of water 60 to a 100 feet in height. Sure it's not a wall, but thank goodness, I don't think big wave surfers could ever have gotten on it.
Big Monday is a short film about that fateful day in October 28th 2013 and the surfers who were out there. From the near drowning of Maya Gabeira and possibly the largest wave surfed on record. It was a pretty thrilling and heroic day for surfing. Check out the video below.
On September 22 2014, New Jersey was blessed with summer's last breath. On saturday a strong wind and ground swell made conditions extremely difficult to ride. Of the 2 hours I was out there I only caught 4 waves, with the last ride actually being quite good, I was satisfied considering the conditions.
Sunday was warm and overcast with fog hanging in most areas. But the waves, were beautiful. Shoulder high, glassy with little wind. There were some head high sets that rolled in. And as long you were in the right spots, you can get an a great ride. Which brings me to the most memorable wave I caught that day. A lone outside overhead monster came my way. I was in shock to have caught it, but it stayed open and glassy, letting me play to the best of my ability. When I got back into the lineup, the old guys were stoked and complemented me on the catch. I still caught a couple more great waves. But that was the standout for me.
On Monday the last day of summer, the swell came to it's peak, with certain areas reaching head high plus! With clear skies, warm weather and the perfect amount of offshore wind blowing through, the waves were groomed and pitched perfect barrels. Unfortunately that's still above my ability. But, I was able to pick a smaller spot that did just the same. I think for the first time I got close to getting barreled 3 times, but the wave still got away from me.
Lastly, sitting in the water with 3 others guys we were blessed the most amazing sunset. I haven't seen it that intense for years. It was humbling to take in the moment.
Today I got to view an amazing short movie The Fisherman's son on Surfline directed by Chris Malloy. It's a great story about big wave surfer Ramón Navarro from Chile. He's truly an inspiring surfer, who followed his passion to get to where he is at today.
Also check out the surf video he made that interviews Kelly Slater giving excellent adise on surfing technique. Unfortunately you'll have to go to vimeo to see it.