The Porto

The misadventures of a weekend kook

September 2014

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Summer's last breath

On September 22 2014, New Jersey was blessed with summer's last breath. On saturday a strong wind and ground swell made conditions extremely difficult to ride. Of the 2 hours I was out there I only caught 4 waves, with the last ride actually being quite good, I was satisfied considering the conditions.

Sunday was warm and overcast with fog hanging in most areas. But the waves, were beautiful. Shoulder high, glassy with little wind. There were some head high sets that rolled in. And as long you were in the right spots, you can get an a great ride. Which brings me to the most memorable wave I caught that day. A lone outside overhead monster came my way. I was in shock to have caught it, but it stayed open and glassy, letting me play to the best of my ability. When I got back into the lineup, the old guys were stoked and complemented me on the catch. I still caught a couple more great waves. But that was the standout for me.

quick drop

On Monday the last day of summer, the swell came to it's peak, with certain areas reaching head high plus! With clear skies, warm weather and the perfect amount of offshore wind blowing through, the waves were groomed and pitched perfect barrels. Unfortunately that's still above my ability. But, I was able to pick a smaller spot that did just the same. I think for the first time I got close to getting barreled 3 times, but the wave still got away from me.

Lastly, sitting in the water with 3 others guys we were blessed the most amazing sunset. I haven't seen it that intense for years. It was humbling to take in the moment.

Taken by Anthony

Sunset photo by Anthony on flickr .

Another big swell should be coming this weekend, so fall is looking to be impressive.


Looks like the surfer's view got a nice instagram collection going of the day.

Update to the update

Looks like they put out an amazing video, near the area I like to surf at.