On Monday the last day of summer, the swell came to it's peak, with certain areas reaching head high plus! With clear skies, warm weather and the perfect amount of offshore wind blowing through, the waves were groomed and pitched perfect barrels. Unfortunately that's still above my ability. But, I was able to pick a smaller spot that did just the same. I think for the first time I got close to getting barreled 3 times, but the wave still got away from me.
Lastly, sitting in the water with 3 others guys we were blessed the most amazing sunset. I haven't seen it that intense for years. It was humbling to take in the moment.
Sunset photo by Anthony on flickr .
Another big swell should be coming this weekend, so fall is looking to be impressive.
Looks like the surfer's view got a nice instagram collection going of the day.
Looks like they put out an amazing video, near the area I like to surf at.