"Engaging in a challenging ocean sport like surfing encourages overall health, happiness and a sense of personal accomplishment. However, surfing also provides physical exercise while giving patients the benefits of hydrotherapy. Because of surfing’s combination of advantages, many children and adults now don’t simply live to surf: they surf to live."
I can honestly say evertime I've left after a session I've always come out in a better mood and feeling relaxed. It's pretty rare that I don't sleep well after a good surfing session. Anything that can help people live life without pills or medication is worth trying.
After missing the nor'easter and thanksgiving day swells. I got the chance to try out the leftovers. Not only was I greeted with nice chest to waist high waves. But, it was also a warmish day for our early winter (46 degrees) with light to non existant offshore winds.
I think a lot of people decided to try the morning, thinking they would catch leftovers from the day before, but instead it was pretty crowded with smaller waves due to a slightly stronger wind. I think we got to the beach at the perfect time, right about 1:30 in the afternoon when the high tide was slowly rolling in. My friends and I, were the only ones on the beach and we got to hog up all the glassy waves. It was a fun time. Sure it wasn't barreling massive 12 footers, but I can't handle beasts like that. I would have liked it just a foot bigger, but this was pretty sweet in my eyes.
Come around next year, I hope to be doing the same thing. No shopping for me on black friday, just some sweet surfing.
Check out this amazing photo from Bill McKim of Shuan McGrath dropping down the face of a 12+ foot wave in Belmar.
On Thanksgiving day we still had some strong swell with head high breaks. The bad part is was 20 degrees with a strong off shore wind (25mph). If you could bear it, you would have caught some amazing waves. You just needed to be at the right spot, otherwise it was the ususal jersey close out sale.