On Monday the last day of summer, the swell came to it's peak, with certain areas reaching head high plus! With clear skies, warm weather and the perfect amount of offshore wind blowing through, the waves were groomed and pitched perfect barrels. Unfortunately that's still above my ability. But, I was able to pick a smaller spot that did just the same. I think for the first time I got close to getting barreled 3 times, but the wave still got away from me.
Lastly, sitting in the water with 3 others guys we were blessed the most amazing sunset. I haven't seen it that intense for years. It was humbling to take in the moment.
Today I got to view an amazing short movie The Fisherman's son on Surfline directed by Chris Malloy. It's a great story about big wave surfer Ramón Navarro from Chile. He's truly an inspiring surfer, who followed his passion to get to where he is at today.